Bees play a very important role in the ecosystem. Besides providing honey for humans and other animals, they pollinate flowering plants. Whether you want to move your hive as part of a home relocation or are simply preparing for the winter, this beehive relocation guide should help you understand how best to go about it.
The first step is getting the hives ready for the relocation exercise. The best time to do this is at night or before dawn. Assuming you had left the hive closed during the day, other bees that may have been out foraging for nectar may be left behind. You ought to close the hive by sealing off the main entrance using hardware cloth. You may use staples to fasten the cloth.
Make sure you use a cloth that is of the right length in order for it to cover the entrance perfectly. When doing this, smoke the bees to avoid agitating them. Also inspect the boxes to ascertain if there are unsealed gaps between them.
In case there are gaps, use duct tape to cover them. Remember to check the weather so as to avoid getting the bees killed through overheating. You should replace the inner cover with a screened cover and remover the outer cover if it is a hot day.
Another vital thing you should not miss is to keep the hive board in a fastened position during transportation. Do not store it in a manner that allows uncontrolled movement when in transit. Too much rattling may make the bees agitated, putting your life and that of those near you in danger should the seals break. The best staples for fastening are the 2 inch versions. However, many beekeepers use ratchet straps instead of staples.
The actual movement process is bound to be a stressful moment for the bees. It is therefore prudent to get going immediately you finish loading so as to get the process over with fast. Ensure you have someone to help you out during transportation. Things often go wrong when beekeepers opt to relocate without any help.
As bees are naturally defensive insects, make sure you suit up for the exercise. The travel distance also matters a lot in this regard. If the distance is less than 2 miles, you might have an issue with local foraging bees returning. However, you should not have an adaptation problem if you are moving them just a few feet or more than 2 miles.
One technique that helps bees adapt to new environments is sequestration. To do this, do not remove the entrance screen upon arrival. Let it remain in place for at least 72 hours once you arrive. This way, the bees will attempt to recondition themselves for their next foraging trip. However, this procedure usually leaves them agitated, so avoid doing it during hot weather.
Bees are usually dormant during winter and when it is rainy. These periods present the safest opportunity for movement. If relocating then, you will only need a leafy branch to close off the entrance. As much as movement is challenging, some advance knowledge on the same can help make your experience smoother.
The first step is getting the hives ready for the relocation exercise. The best time to do this is at night or before dawn. Assuming you had left the hive closed during the day, other bees that may have been out foraging for nectar may be left behind. You ought to close the hive by sealing off the main entrance using hardware cloth. You may use staples to fasten the cloth.
Make sure you use a cloth that is of the right length in order for it to cover the entrance perfectly. When doing this, smoke the bees to avoid agitating them. Also inspect the boxes to ascertain if there are unsealed gaps between them.
In case there are gaps, use duct tape to cover them. Remember to check the weather so as to avoid getting the bees killed through overheating. You should replace the inner cover with a screened cover and remover the outer cover if it is a hot day.
Another vital thing you should not miss is to keep the hive board in a fastened position during transportation. Do not store it in a manner that allows uncontrolled movement when in transit. Too much rattling may make the bees agitated, putting your life and that of those near you in danger should the seals break. The best staples for fastening are the 2 inch versions. However, many beekeepers use ratchet straps instead of staples.
The actual movement process is bound to be a stressful moment for the bees. It is therefore prudent to get going immediately you finish loading so as to get the process over with fast. Ensure you have someone to help you out during transportation. Things often go wrong when beekeepers opt to relocate without any help.
As bees are naturally defensive insects, make sure you suit up for the exercise. The travel distance also matters a lot in this regard. If the distance is less than 2 miles, you might have an issue with local foraging bees returning. However, you should not have an adaptation problem if you are moving them just a few feet or more than 2 miles.
One technique that helps bees adapt to new environments is sequestration. To do this, do not remove the entrance screen upon arrival. Let it remain in place for at least 72 hours once you arrive. This way, the bees will attempt to recondition themselves for their next foraging trip. However, this procedure usually leaves them agitated, so avoid doing it during hot weather.
Bees are usually dormant during winter and when it is rainy. These periods present the safest opportunity for movement. If relocating then, you will only need a leafy branch to close off the entrance. As much as movement is challenging, some advance knowledge on the same can help make your experience smoother.
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